Diamond Cartouche

Pronounced (Car-toosh) – a scrolled frame.

Researching the history of jewellery design, this style of ring really stood out to me as something I would like to re-create in my own style.

These mourning bands are from the mid 1700’s.  This style of ring was sadly common in those times, and it commemorated a loved one passed.  Each enamelled cartouche has the name, date they died and how old they were when they died.  The inscriptions are a bit hard to understand because there is latin mixed in with the english.

OB:  and then a date –  OB is Latin for Obit – date of death
AE or AET : and then a number  –   Is Latin for Aetatis – age at death

In the picture, left, OB: the date of death was 20th June 1735 and AE : 38 means he was 38 when he died.  Black enamel, commonly associated with death was usually used, but white enamel was also used for children and those who were unmarried.  Isn’t it just heartbreaking?  And so meaningful.

If you are interested in learning more about memorial jewellery, Hayden Peters has a wonderful blog called The Art of Mourning where he goes into great detail about all the symbolism, history and stories behind jewels like this.

My Implementation

I didn’t do any preliminary sketches for this job,  just went straight into CAD with reference to pictures I had downloaded.

Creating the 3D model of this ring was extremely labour intensive, but so rewarding.  I made prototypes in sterling silver and cubic zirconia along the way, to test how everything would come together.  I have made a few changes, so the development took months to complete, but I’m very happy with the final product.

Diamond Cartouche.. inspiration and final product

Based on a historic source from the eighteenth century, this design honours the connection between loved ones, past and present.
It’s Rococo styling and sentimental quality make it a charming modern heirloom.

TECHNICAL DETAILS

5 scrolled cartouches hold 5 diamonds each.
25 stones = .25ct    F colour / VS clarity

Diamond colour & clarity :
The colour is a nice white “F”
High quality VS grade-  Very Small inclusions.

The band is 3.8mm wide  –  2mm high
Can be made in white, yellow or rose gold – 9ct, 14ct, 18ct

Welcome to Cowes
January 27, 2022
By Becca Jan
July 12, 2021
Estate
April 20, 2021
Progress
February 20, 2021
Co-Vid Update
July 30, 2020
News!
November 10, 2019
I’ve Moved!
October 19, 2019
Name Change
March 25, 2017
The Goldsmiths Gallery
September 25, 2016
Gray Reid Gallery
April 15, 2016
Manhattan
February 10, 2016
Dalloway
December 9, 2015
Fleur de Lis
September 30, 2015
Natalie
August 18, 2015
Diamond Cartouche
August 11, 2015
Hallmarks
January 11, 2015
Picot
July 16, 2014
Christina
May 27, 2014

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